Expert Guide

Pick the system that matches the impact you actually need to absorb — not just the cheapest rail on the page.

• Identify the heaviest vehicle and the realistic top speed in the area you're protecting.
• Decide whether you need a rigid system (low deflection, protects fixed structures) or a flexible one (higher deflection, safer for occupants).
• Confirm whether the barrier will be cast-in, bolted to a slab, or wall-mounted — each needs a different post.
• Always order end terminals and corner pieces with your run — a square-cut beam end is a hazard, not a barrier.

Bollards range from visual guidance posts to high-impact security units — getting the spec right matters.

• Use 100–114mm fixed bollards for general guidance and pedestrian protection.
• Step up to 168mm or larger for genuine vehicle impact resistance in front of buildings or shopfronts.
• Choose retractable or removable units only where occasional vehicle access is genuinely required.
• Always galvanise externally — paint alone will fail within a season on a busy yard.

Key Clamp gives you a regulation-compliant handrail without welding or specialist trades.

• Plan post centres at no more than 1.5m apart on a level run, closer on inclines.
• Fit the start of the rail before the first step or hazard and continue past the last one.
• Pedestrian rail height is typically 900–1100mm above the walking surface.
• Tighten fittings with the correct Allen key in sequence — over-tightening one bolt distorts the clamp.

A ten-minute survey before you order saves a re-order and a return delivery.

• Measure the protected line in metres — not paces.
• Note the floor build-up: concrete slab, block paving, asphalt, or a suspended deck.
• Photograph any corners, columns, drains or services along the run.
• Mark loading-bay door swings and forklift turning circles before placing fixed barriers.